Saturday, February 23, 2008

The Servants of Hong Kong

The Servants of Hong Kong

One can hardly be in Hong Kong very long at all, especially in middle class residential neighborhoods, without noticing the very large number of women who are obviously not Chinese or Western doing everything from shopping to walking well manicured dogs to pushing baby carriages with Chinese or Western children in them. They are domestic servants, mostly from the Philippines, but there is a sizeable number from Indonesia as well. Most are younger women from rural areas but there are some middle aged ones as well. The Philippine women speak Engish and can take their orders in English from native speakers or from professional Chinese, but there is a sizeable number who speak Chinese (both Cantonese and putonghua) to serve the Chinese monolinguals as well.

They work six days per week but on Sundays, their day off, they are everywhere—out shopping in the cheaper street markets, meeting with friends downtown, taking pictures, having picnics on the hillsides, or just strutting around in their Sunday finest. They all have cell phones and are constantly in touch with their friends and getting together with different groups from early on Sunday morning until they head back late on Sunday night for another week of work. On Sundays especially, they seem to talk a mile a minute. It felt this way to me possibly because I don't know a word in their langauges but maybe because they have spent the last 6 days listening to people telling them what to do and can now finally talk freely to peers. Their presence adds a new energtic cosmopolitan dimension to Hong Kong. There have always been domestic servants in Hong Kong but they were typically older Chinese woman who were invisible in the majority populace.

The servants are all live-in and they typically have a tiny room of their own to sleep in or go to when not on duty, which is not very often. Looking out of the window where we were staying, I could see into a kitchen in another wing of the same building (about 50 feet away) and noticed a servant's bed hanging about 3 feet off the ceiling in a corner of the kitchen. Needless to say these young women are not uncomely and having them at home all the time might put some stress and temptation into some marriages. Abuse is probably a more likely outcome than wrecked marriages, but this is only conjecture on my part. In Cantonese the usual term for the Philippine women is 宾妹, the first character of which is from the transliteration of 'Philippine' and the second of which means 'girl' but in a somewhat condescending way in this context. It's kind of like calling a foreigner a laowai on the mainland. It's not the worst, but not exactly respectful. On Sundays, I've seen middle aged Philippinas handing out business cards which looked like they might have hotline numbers. Many others, however, were just trying to sell bargain airfares back to Manila.

I'm surprised at the large number of people who are able to afford domestic servants. Of some people we saw—a technical college teacher, a legal worker, a social work couple—all had servants. A decent HK salary is about 20,000 HK dollars per month and a live-in servant might cost 4-5000 HK dollars per month in addition to food and a little room or corner to sleep in. Thus, for a 2-income couple it's not much of a stretch and covers child care, pet care, cooking, dish washing, shopping, house cleaning, laundry, etc. Quite a bargain. Clearly, the servants themselves must consider it worthwhile or at least better than other options back home because they are there in HK in the tens of thousands. Five to six hundred US dollars per month is not very much, but remitting half of it to a relative in a rural village could mean a lot. The comparison to Mexicans in North America is obvious.

In the house where we were staying we were waited on by an Indonesian woman in her early 30s who gets about 4000 HK dollars per month. She saves her money and sends it home to buy farm land and a house for her parents. She doesn't go out even on Sundays, seems to have only the barest necessities for clothes, and goes home only once every one to three years for a week or two. She's extremely polite, calling everyone Sir or Miss. She does things you don't ask her to do—I never asked her to do anything—like making coffee, peeling fruit, washing clothes, etc. Her biggest pleasure seems to be staying up late watching the house TV, which she is permitted to do, and sleeping in late when possible. She speaks good everyday Cantonese, which she learned from TV. She is also said to speak putonghua and basic English. She graduated from senior high school but said there was no point in studying further since there were no good jobs to be had in any case.

I explained to her that I didn't like the idea of servants and it was not necessary to treat me formally or do things for me since I wasn't her boss, but she said that she was a maid and this was her station in life. Anyway, she probably knew we would give her some extra money for her trouble, which we did. She refused to go out to dinner with us probably because she feared that the person who pays her salary would disapprove. (It's a very complicated family situation in which the friend we were staying with and where the servant works is not the one who pays the servant's salary.) She gets somewhat overworked in the sense that besides the place where she lives and works she occasionally gets dragged over to the employer's sister's place to do cleaning there too.

The whole idea of servants is repulsive to me, but perhaps one can say that being a domestic gives this person the chance to develop herself and save some cash, travel, and learn a language. After all, I did essentially the same thing with teaching English as a second langauge—not my first career choice by any means and one that opened me to heavier work loads, lower salaries and no job security, but got me off the block. She said if she gets enough land she'll have people farm it and take 50% of their crops. Thus, she in turn will become an exploiter after 13 years to date of being exploited. As yet she has no idea or plan as to when she can return home. She does not appear the least bitter or angry about her station in life. On the contrary, she always comes across as very cheerful.

She recognized that people in Indonesia have a negative view of Chinese because of the economic power of the overseas Chinese there and in most of Southeast Asia. An interesting and not unexpected aside is that she spoke well of the former independence leader Sukarno but dislikes the deposed and corrupt Suharto. I would presume that to be a common opinion among the dispossed majority of the country.

From the window of this flat I saw servants in other flats constantly washing windows, drapes, even the rims of flower pots and other stupid make-work projects. In return they get Sundays off and get to descend on flea markets and wear their finest right along with their young Chinese and Western counteparts. This is their gift from international capitalism, the global economy. Abuse—beyond what's totally legal—must exist, but to hear them laugh, chatter and picnic on a Sunday afternoon you would never know it. Is this what they came for? Are they content? Hopeful? It's easy enough for Tom Friedman to point to them and say yes. He's a busy and important man and may well have a servant too.

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